FRANÇOISE MARTINOT
Chervey
Champagne
Charles Dufour has been something of an breakout success in the world of natural wine. Since 2010, he has been making wines from some of his family's vineyards situated in Celles-sur-Ource under his mother's name, Domaine Françoise Martinot.
The few hectares of vines he looks after here are planted on the lower slopes where the soils are composed of a typical blend of marl and limestone but with a slightly warmer micro-climate compared to Charles's own vines in Landreville, in the Côte des Bar.
Charles employs a biodynamic approach, quite the challenge in this region's marginal and unpredictable climate. In the cellar produces his vin clair using native yeasts, raising the wine in barrels and avoiding the use of sulphites altogether. He opts for extensive ageing on the lees to yield complex, engaging champagnes with a beautiful vinous character. We are very excited for the future of this promising winemaker whose wines go from strength to strength with each passing vintage.
Photo by LITTLEWINE
Bistrøtage B19
Vintage NV (Récolte 2019)
Style Sparkling
Region Chervey, Côte des Bar
Varieties Pinot noir
Soils Clay, Limestone
Farming Biodynamic
ABV
Winemaking A blend of different expressions of Pinot Noir from Charles mother’s parcels in Chervey. The base wine is 100% from the 2019 vintage. The whole bunches are spontaneously fermented, followed by a one year in ageing - half in cuve and half in barrel. Tirage takes place in October 2020, followed by a long élevage on lees in bottle. The wine is disgorged in October 2020.
Tasting Note A beautiful rich style with deep apricot fruit, brioche and toasty notes. Palate is round and generous.
Bistrøtage Rose B.11
Vintage NV (Récolte 2011)
Style Rosé Sparkling
Region Chervey, Côte des Bar
Varieties Pinot noir
Soils Clay, Limestone
Farming Biodynamic
ABV 12%
Winemaking A blend of different expressions of Pinot Noir sourced from different sites within the Vallée de l’Arce and the Vallée de
la Seine, in the Côte des Bar. The base is all from the 2011 vintage. Spontaneous vinification using indigenous yeasts and malolactic happens naturally. 70% of the Pinot grapes are pressed and the other 20% vinified whole bunch for 3 weeks. Aged for 9 months on fine lees and rested in tank for 2 months once racked. The remaining 10% of the blend is made with vin de réserve from 2010 and 2011.The final blend ages for a further 3 years in barrels before tirage. Disgorged with no dosage in August 2021 after nearly 7 years on lees in bottle.
Tasting Note Roasted quince, candid bergamot, a sweet marzipan note followed by a warm brioche finish. This is textured and rich, the perfect versatile foody Champagne.
Bistrøtage B.14 ‘Affinage Prolongé’
Vintage NV (Récolte 2014)
Style Sparkling
Region Chervey, Côte des Bar
Varieties Pinot noir
Soils Clay, Limestone
Farming Biodynamic
ABV 12%
Winemaking This blanc de noirs is made up of exclusively pinot noir planted on the same clayey-calcareous soils of the entire Bistrøtage range, in the village of Chervey. The base wine for this cuvée comes from the 2014 harvest, vinified the same way as B14 though spending a whole 10 years on its lees. Disgorged without any dosage. The wine only sees a minimal addition of SO2 when the juice is being pressed. No SO2 is added during vinification or bottling.
Dosage Brut Nature
Tasting Note The fattiest of the lot, this champagne offers incredible depth and finesse. Notes of toast, sweet spice and umami. On the palate is just as generous and dense with a distinct sense of energy.
Coteaux Champenois ‘Vin Blanc’
Vintage 2020
Style White
Region Chervey, Côte des Bar
Varieties Pinot Noir
Soils Clay, Limestone
Farming Biodynamic
ABV
Winemaking Direct pressed whole bunches of Pinot Noir from the lieux dit Bicheret are spontaneously fermented and aged for around 12 months in old fûts. A very rare wine, made only in minuscule quantities and on optimal vintages.
Tasting Note This unusual take on Coteaux Champenois is vibrant and energetic. A little shy at first, given it enough time to open up it offers gorgeous lemon balm and ginger spice balanced by an impressive mineral imprint of the finish.
Coteaux Champenois ‘Vin Rosé’
Vintage 2021
Style Rosé
Region Chervey, Côte des Bar
Varieties Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier
Soils Clay, Limestone
Farming Biodynamic
ABV
Winemaking Here the Meunier is vinified as red in whole bunch semi-carbonic maceration, whilst the Pinot Noir is direct pressed. These are then blended and rest on fine lees to matured in old Burgundy barrels for just under a year, then transferred to vats and left to rest for a couple of months. Bottled in November 22, unfiltered, unfined and without any SO2 additions.
Tasting Note Vibrant raspberry and soft scented cherry fruit are lifted by this incredible zestiness and minerality. This is still a baby and can age for a very long time.
Coteaux Champenois ‘Vin Rouge’
Vintage 2020
Style Red
Region Chervey, Côte des Bar
Varieties Pinot Meunier
Soils Clay, Limestone
Farming Biodynamic
ABV
Winemaking Meunier comes from the few vines planted in Bicheret and Val Hérard, surrounded by Pinot Noir. Bunches are harvested whole and fermented over three weeks in old Burgundy barrels without stopping malolactic. Ageing lasts 9 months before a first racking when the wine is transferred to vats and left to rest for a further two months. Bottled unfiltered, unfined and sulfur-free.
Tasting Note A light, charming pinot that shows extreme freshness and juciness despite its age. A touch of earthiness underlies the strawberry and cherry flavors, followed by remarkable peppery quality.
FF13
Vintage NV (Récolte 2013)
Style White Sparkling
Region Chervey, Côte des Bar
Varieties Pinot Noir
Soils Clay, Limestone
Farming Biodynamic
ABV
Winemaking A rare single parcel Blanc de Noirs Pinot Noir from the lieu dit ‘Les Copies’ in Chervey. The juice is spontaneously fermented and spends one year in barrel on its lees before élevage in bottle. The wine is disgorged after a long maturation period, in April 2022. The wine is non-dosé and sees no sulfur additions at any stage.
Tasting Note A beautiful Brut Nature Blanc de Noirs from talented Charles Dufour. This has a beautiful tension between electric energy and savoury undertones - reminiscent of oatmeal, dried lemon peel, sage and toast.
Coteaux Champenois, Vin de Campagne
Vintage 2022
Style Rosé
Region Chervey, Côte des Bar
Varieties Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier
Soils Clay, Limestone
Farming Biodynamic
ABV
Winemaking
Direct Pressed Pinot Noir is then infused in the marc from the Pinot Meunier for 2 weeks in tank. The wine then matures in old Burgundy barrels. Bottled in December 2023 entirely by gravity and without filtering, fining or any SO2 additions.
Tasting Note